The Portuguese Feast of the Holy Ghost: A Stonington Tradition

By Will Fyke and Chelsea Mitchell, Historic Stonington

Summer in Stonington is a magical time, and it seems that every weekend, there’s another parade or community event to attend. While many of us may know the history of the Blessing of the Fleet, which happens every July, many are less familiar with another Portuguese tradition here in Stonington—the Feast of the Holy Ghost. 

The Portuguese community in Stonington began around 1840, when whalemen who had been contracted onto Stonington vessels in the Azores returned with the ship to its home port, eager to begin a new life. Over the next one hundred years, thousands of other Azoreans made this place their home, coming from places like Faial and Sao Miguel. Like any immigrant community in the United States, they built their own safe havens; they congregated “South of the Cannons”, and along Wall Street; attended service at the newly built St. Mary Catholic Church (1851); and socialized at the Portuguese Holy Ghost Society (est. 1914). The name here is no coincidence, and is directly linked to the feast of the Holy Ghost, which is celebrated in nearly every Portuguese community the world over.

So, what is the Feast of the Holy Ghost, or Festo do Espirito Santo?

It all begins with Queen Isabella (1503-1539). Isabella was the daughter of King Manuel I of Portugal and his second wife Maria of Aragon. At the age of twenty-three, she married her cousin, Charles V, Holy Roman Emperor, King of Spain, Archduke of Austria, and Duke of Burgundy. This made Isabella Queen of Spain and Germany, Lady of the Netherlands, Holy Roman Empress and Queen of Italy - quite a title for any young woman. Despite the incredible pressure of her position, by all accounts, Queen Isabella was a compassionate ruler. She dedicated herself to helping the poor by establishing orphanages, institutions for the sick, housing for the homeless, and a convent for nuns. (Something she had considered while her cousin debated their union.) Isabella cared for abandoned babies and even took care of her husband’s children with other women.

Portrait of Isabella of Portugal by Titian, 1548

One year, while experiencing a long stretch of harsh rainy weather, which was ruining crops and creating fear of famine, Queen Isabella prayed for the rain to stop. She promised God if the rain stopped and the famine ended, she would sell her crown jewels to feed the poor. When the rain finally stopped, she went the next day to sell her jewels and began assisting the poor with renewed energy. Her intercession on behalf of her people and her sacrifice are honored each year at the Feast of the Holy Ghost.

On the Sunday before Labor Day each year, following a high mass at St. Mary Church, a symbolic crown and scepter, originally from the Azores, are carried in a parade through town and then returned to the Portuguese Holy Ghost Society. However, this parade marks the end of a year-long tradition. During the year (September - August), the crown and scepter stay in the homes of the seven Domingos (Sundays). These Domingos are chosen at the conclusion of the annual feast, when everyone gathers at the Holy Ghost Society and enters a drawing for the honor. Over one hundred people enter the drawing each year, and in order to enter one must donate $25 or “tres bolos” (three breads). One by one, as names are called, the anxious participants make their way to the front of the crowd and reach into another basket, which is filled with slips for the seven domingos, as well as slips saying “tres bolos” (your expected contribution for next year). Should you not pick a Domingo, the announcer will usually smile, giving you false hope when he slowly reads out “tressss bolosss,” as the Westerly Band plays what can best be described as a “womp womp.” Should you win one of the Domingos, the Westerly Band will break into Hino do Divino Espirito Santo, and the crowd will cheer and dance as you celebrate.

The crown and scepter

The crown and scepter spend most of the year at the home of the first Domingo - 46 weeks. In the weeks leading up to the Feast, it stays a week in the home of each of the other six chosen domingos, where it is displayed in a place of honor, often surrounded by flowers, candles, and the red flag of the Holy Ghost.

Fred Souza carrying the crown, 1970s

The last week before the festival, it travels to the home of the mordome, or sponsor, who carries it in the parade and places it back at the Holy Ghost Society for the drawing of the next year’s domingos.

For more information about the 2024 Feast of the Holy Ghost on Saturday, August 31, and Sunday, September 1, please visit the Holy Ghost Club.