In the Borough, Food is a Family Affair
It’s not uncommon to find restaurants that are owned and operated by couples or members of a family. After all, it’s a demanding business that requires long, grueling hours away from home. In Stonington Borough, most of our restaurants are family affairs, and the people who run them all say the same thing: food is love.
When it opened in 1973, Jon Kodama was a manager of Steak Loft in Mystic. Eventually, he would go on to acquire the restaurant, as well as Go Fish (slated to reopen in their new location on Route 1 this Fall), Dock and Dine in Old Saybrook, and Breakwater Stonington Harbor, formerly known as Skipper’s Dock.
Jon Kodama and his daughter Mari
Jon’s daughter Mari dipped her toe in the family business in high school. Her first job was behind the sushi bar at Go Fish. After college and a foray into finance, she joined the family business full-time in 2012 to run Dock and Dine. Mother Nature wasn’t kind. First, Hurricane Irene destroyed the restaurant, and after rebuilding, Hurricane Sandy came along sixty-three days later and destroyed it again. Mari poured her attention into the other locations, primarily Breakwater Stonington Harbor.
Breakwater offers a real mix of everything. “Being on the shoreline, we largely feature seafood,” Mari says. “But our customers want variety - salads, chicken, steak, burgers - so we have that too.” It’s no surprise that in the summer, Breakwater’s capacity more than doubles. The outside space floats above Stonington Harbor, with breathtaking views of Long Island Sound and the sound of foghorns in the distance. “You can’t beat the sunsets. They never get old.”
Reservations and walk-ins are welcome. Call (860) 415-8123.
Wednesday thru Sunday — Lunch & Dinner 11:30 am - 9 pm
Clay Burkhalter, Wendy and David Eck
Stonington Borough was the first location for Dog Watch Café, opened by husband and wife, David and Wendy Eck, along with Wendy’s brother Clay Burkhalter fifteen years ago. The trio has since added the Dog Pound out back, a year-round (weather-depending), dockside cocktail and dining experience that takes full advantage of their jaw-dropping view of Stonington Harbor, and an ice cream and retail tent out front. Ice cream is available from Memorial Day to Labor Day, and the retail tent is run by Wendy’s sister, Heather. It’s stocked with clothing, leashes, bowls, and glassware, all featuring the unmistakable Dog Watch logo.
The restaurant is consistently packed, reservations are encouraged, and the menu is heavily skewed to capitalize on the gifts of the sea — Stonington sea scallops, Watch Hill oysters, lobster rolls, and seared tuna.
The crew’s second location, Dog Watch Mystic, was born in 2016. If you haven’t been, it’s ideally suited for families. There is plenty of indoor and outdoor seating, but the kid’s area with toys, lawn games, and jungle gym allows parents to fully relax and enjoy themselves. There’s also an event tent that accommodates 100 people, available April through November. The menu in Mystic specializes in authentic, house-smoked BBQ — a big hit with kids and adults…win, win!
Dog Watch is a family business after all, so it’s no surprise that David and Wendy’s daughter Darcey runs catering, events, and steps in to help out with both restaurants.
Reservations are encouraged at both locations. Takeout and catering are available.
Dog Watch Café (Stonington) (860) 415-4510
Dog Watch Mystic (860) 245-4911
Open seven days a week, year-round — 11:30 am - 9 pm
Happy Hour seven days a week in Stonington, off-season in Mystic
Noah’s Restaurant was opened in 1979 by Stan Schwartz and John Papp. John’s wife Debbie worked at Noah’s for 35 years, and together they pioneered scratch cooking before farm-to-table was cool. Debbie’s daughter Katie, who spent 28 years working at Noah’s, is a registered dietician and married Andrew Field, who in 2017, purchased Stan’s share when he retired.
Andrew Field and his wife Katie
Andrew continues to lead Noah’s with the same philosophy the founders intended. “Using the simplest, purest ingredients to produce meals you’ll love,” he says. Although Katie has not been involved in the day-to-day operations in the last year, she is committed to Noah’s philosophy and approach, through her work and the way she and Andrew feed their family.
Noah’s offers specials for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and brunch changes with the whim of the seasons. Wildly popular are their themed dinners — Tuesday Buck-A-Shuck Oysters, Lobstah Wednesday, and Meatloaf Thursday (Aunt Mary Anne’s recipe of course).
By the end of September, Andrew will be opening the Borough Bodega and Scoopery right next door. Envisioned as a market filled with fresh produce, meats, and cheeses sourced through local farmers, you’ll also be able to get ice cream, freshly-baked bread, and eventually, prepared foods from Noah’s kitchen. It will be a great complement to Tom’s Newstand, which is full of household staples and necessities.
Reservations are strongly encouraged. Call (860) 535-3925.
Tuesday thru Saturday — Breakfast 7:45 am - 11:30 am, Lunch & Dinner 11:30 am - 9 pm
Sunday — Brunch 7:45 am - 3 pm, Supper 3 pm - 9 pm
Happy Hour — Everyday 3 pm - 5 pm
It’s been a challenging six months for Water Street Café, and now more than ever, family means everything to the Houlihans.
Stephanie and Walter Houlihan with daughters Danielle Corcoran (seated) and Kelsey (Houlihan)
Back in February, Walter, the patriarch and Executive Chef, suffered a devastating brain aneurysm. Fortunately he’s at home and slowly recovering. Stephanie, who runs operations and the front of the house, had to act quickly. Two of their daughters were already part of the team — Danielle Corcoran is the bar manager and Stephanie’s right hand, and Kelsey grew up at Water Street Café, charming patrons at the tender age of 4. “When we were open for Sunday brunch, Kelsey would sit at the bar in her feety pajamas when people were having their bloody Mary’s,” Stephanie says. Chef Morgana Vesey jumped in at a moment’s notice. “Morgana did a phenomenal job taking over the helm temporarily,” Stephanie says.
James Fowler has recently returned full-time as Chef for the third time in 25 years. He and his wife Amanda Barnes (who hosts a couple of nights a week) met at Water Street Café over 20 years ago, and now, both their kids work there too — Lily is a bar back and Leo is a busser.
Stephanie describes the menu as New American Cuisine that’s ethnically diverse. “There’s a lot of influence from different countries,” she says. “We love to do a tempura yellowfin tuna that’s similar to a Japanese dish. We also do a prosciutto quesadilla which is Italian,” she says.
Their number one dessert is a recipe that originated from Stephanie’s grandmother Guadalupe Gallegos. “Walter took my grandmother’s wafer cake and refined the ingredients. He removed the lemon drizzle and added Belgian chocolate, and it’s our best seller.”
Reservations are strongly encouraged. Call (860) 535-2122
Tuesday thru Saturday — Dinner 5 pm - 9 pm
Johan Jensen, his wife Abbey Hemmann, and their daughter Suna
Wander on over to the Velvet Mill and you’ll find Whitecrest Eatery. At the helm are the husband and wife team of Johan Jensen and Abbey Hemmann. Abbey is the general manager, often found wearing one-year-old daughter Suna. Johan is in the kitchen, whipping up delicious, exciting plates.
“We both traveled a lot and find inspiration from food around the world,” Abbey says. It’s evident in their menu, which changes weekly. Twice a year, they offer Wanderlust, a six-week traveling menu series. Each week focuses on a different country, and the menu changes completely. Join them for five or more weeks, and at the end of the series, you’re entered into a drawing to win a private dinner.
This summer, they added a US Road Trip series. “Everything is made in-house from scratch with great ingredients,” Abbey says. “The menu is small, but it’s thoughtful and delicious — from craft cocktails to the entrees.”
“Raising our daughter in the restaurant has been an amazing experience,” Abbey says. “Guests have seen Suna grow and she is a big part of it.” Perhaps one day, she’ll be in the kitchen too.
Reservations are strongly encouraged. Call (860) 980-0984.
Wednesday thru Sunday — Dinner 4:30 pm - 9 pm
Happy Hour — Wednesday thru Sunday, 4:30 pm - 6 pm